Hence, there are ponds in front of Kim Son's building, as well as a fountain at the front door and a giant aquarium. Water, according to feng shui practitioners, is thought to channel a positive ch'i, which in turn channels customers with money to your business. It's clear that Kim Son is designed around Buddhist feng shui principles.

After 15 minutes, we were rewarded for our patience with a round table at the intersection of two aisles in the huge front dining room, next to the fish tank and close to the kitchen - a very lucky location. I turned that one down, too, much to the consternation of my girlfriend and my hungry daughters. After ten minutes of waiting, we were offered a table in a tight section to the side of the hostess stand. We were offered a table in the otherwise empty bar after five minutes of waiting. On the Sunday after the Chinese New Year, the restaurant was packed at 11 a.m. So I led a couple of expeditions down the Southwest Freeway to find out. Why would it specialize in Chinese dim sum? I wondered. That's where everybody goes now, they said. But their magical chef had been wooed away to the Kim Son in Stafford. Ai Hoa used to make the best dim sum in town, they said. A few days after that review appeared, several Asian acquaintances approached me and said that I had made a mistake. But the truth is that this enormous outpost in the local Vietnamese chain hosts a pretty wild dim sum party every Sunday morning.Ī few months ago I wrote a review in which I called Ai Hoa the best dim sum restaurant in town (see ' The Best Dim Sum in Guangzhouston,' November 2, 2000). It's the first Sunday after the Chinese New Year, and the dim sum brunch at Kim Son's Stafford location is a wild party. My daughters are jumping around the table trying to get their pictures taken with the dragon, and it's everything I can do to keep the teacups and dumpling dishes from being upended. When he catches it, pandemonium ensues - cymbals crash, flashbulbs pop, and a crowd of more than a hundred roars in applause. The monster leaps into the air, trying to grab a bunch of lettuce hanging from the doorway. The yellow dragon rears back on his hind legs and opens his jaws wide while an ominous drumroll thunders through the room.

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